Santiago de Compostela & Costa da Morte

Pages from the Travel Journal

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On our last night in Santiago de Compostela we visited two of the town’s best wine-bars – O Filandon and O Beiro – to sample a couple of whites and reds, and buy some bottles to take with us home. At O Filandon the walls were covered with notes written by pilgrims, students and other travellers, which you could examine while you drank some of their excellent wines … always served with some great free tapas! In O Beiro they had a large selection of wines and some great dishes to go along with the tasting. We had a lovely talk with our waiter, who we taught to say “thank you” in Danish, which is “tak”. He said it sounded like when you tap your finger on wood, which isn’t far from the truth.

Next day we drove along the cost of Costa de Morte and made a pit-stop in Camariñas, where we ate fresh Sardines, that had been cooked to perfection on an outdoor grill by a sweet old lady wearing a gradma apron over a white chef’s uniform. Before driving on toward our next destination, we took a little detour to the lighthouse at Cabo Vilán, which is a beautiful spot with seagulls playing in the wind and a great view over one of the most dangerous parts of the coast. Here many a ship has met its end, including the English torpedo cruiser HMS Serpent, which sank in 1890 and took 173 men with it into the deep.

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